You add water, mix and pour into your form to create a dense high-temperature firebrick. The finished product is rated at F. This material is often used in furnaces and boilers. It is often used to create forges and for the floor of pizza and bread ovens.

For wood kiln building this a great product as it allows you to cast any shape you need. When casting larger monoliths it is recommended to add stainless steel refractory needles or other or stainless wire reinforcement. We also carry Litewate which is a similar product but with Litewate you can cast insulating firebrick forms. Often a forge will utilize a dense Loucast or hard-fire brick floor, with walls made of or insulated with Litewate, soft insulating fire brick IFBor kaowool blanket.

All of these materials are available in pallet quantities at special pricing for large scale projects. Please call or email us for a quote. This refractory mortar is designed to successfully withstand high sulphur fuel, reducing atmospheres, carbon deposition, erosion and abrasion. This castable refractory cement can be used for gunning, casting, troweling, or extruding. Yield : Pounds dry yields 1 cubic foot. With proper supervision, relatively unskilled labor can be used and still achieve excellent structural and thermal properties in the finished refractory lining.

Mixing Castable refractories or refractory concretes, as they are sometimes called, can be installed by one of several methods: 1 pouring into forms, 2 tamping into place or 3 pneumatic gunning.

When the installation is by pouring or tamping, the mixing is done in a concrete mixer or preferably in a paddle type mixer. Mixing can be done in a mortar box by hand but this is not recommended. Only good clear water, suitable for drinking, should be used because there could be mineral or chemical contaminants in process water or dirty water, which could completely destroy the effect of the bonding agent in the refractory. The mixer must be free of dirt and set-up concrete from previous mixes because if this material were to flake off into the new castable, it could have a radical effect on the setting characteristics of the new material.

The time of mixing, after the addition of water, should be sufficient to insure that all of the dry material is thoroughly wetted but in no case should exceed five minutes. The proper water to cement ratio is of extreme importance when mixing a castable refractory mortar.

Enough water has to be used to hydrate the cement but an excessive amount of water will create shrinkage and a considerable loss of strength. There is a natural tendency for workmen to make the castable refractory mortar mix too wet because it will work and flow more easily in this state. As a result it is important to maintain careful supervision over the mixing process and there should be little variation in the water to material ration from the batch to batch. There is a simple test, called the ball-in-hand test, to determine the proper consistency.

Take a large handful of the castable refractory mortar mix and squeeze it between the hands as if making a snowball. The material should form compactly and have a light film of water on the surface.

When the ball is thrown about 12 inches into the air and caught with an open hand, the material should slump only enough to just begin to penetrate between the fingers.

A mixture of this consistency would be correct for what is normally called a pouring mix. A tamping mix, by the same test as described above, should have just enough water to form a compact ball with no water film on the surface. When thrown as above it should remain intact and not penetrate between the fingers at all. The temperature during mixing and casting is mainly of importance due to its effect on the working time. Castables are stronger when cast in the warm weather, 70 degrees Fahrenheit or above, but casting at temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit generally gives good results if the castable is not allowed to freeze before it cures.Our new search experience requires JavaScript to be enabled.

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Canadian Tire under fire for equipment sales

Friday 7 a.I am ready to line my forge with insulation. They currently have Kaowool rated for F in stock. They have F Kaowool on order and expect it to arrive in about 2 weeks. Can I use the F or must I wait for the F to arrive? You can use the 2,f Kaowool but you'll be replacing it a lot sooner. The 8lb. That just means it takes a beating better. However, if you're going to use a hard inner flame contact liner and Kaowool as an insulating backer the lower rated blanket is perfectly fine.

Oh, thanks Frosty! I can wait because I am a grown-up. But, I really don't want to wait for the stuff. I will certainly use a 'kiln wash'--the place that has the kaowool also sells ITC I am getting close to getting my forge running! Oh boy! The asking price for the ITC is I did not get that. I don't really know what I am doing but it seems to have worked as a protective coating on the Kaowool.

What do you think of refractory cement. I can get some from the hardware store that is rated for use in furnaces up to F. That sounds like a bargain price for ITC especially if you add shipping to Alaska. We just bought some zirconium flour and kaolin clay to mix our own kiln wash. ITC is or used to be zirconium sand about 80 and kaolin clay What is i the kiln wash you bought? Forge welding fluxes tend to be primarily borax which is caustic when molten so silicates are dissolved quickly.

Molten borax eats kaowool like hot water through cotton candy. To protect the forge liner a high alumina refractory is good. High phosphate or phosphate bonded is ideal. Pottery folk will usually understand protecting the refractory in the furnace from hot caustics and be able to advise you. Thanks Frosty. I do not anticipate welding in my forge. I have said "never" too many times in my life to say I will never forge weld. I will print off and keep your note for future reference when something that I now cannot remotely imagine arrises and I decide I need to forge weld.

The package of kiln wash is not clear as to its contents but states "contains silica" and wear a mask. I will call them and get some more information with the help of you post. Thank you again for your wisdome. BTW, today I ran the forge more than a test run. I forged a pair of tong blanks. The tong blanks turned out. They are not elegant but with some grinding and filing, they will work like a hot darn.


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